J+L in Transit

Hoàn Kiếm District (Old Quarter)

Our hotels in Hà Nội were located in the Hoàn Kiếm district (a.k.a. the Old Quarter). The streets are small, the sidewalks covered in motorbike parking or nonexistent, and the health code not enforced (if it was ever created). Hoàn Kiếm is colorful, loud, and smelly — in both good and bad ways, simultaneously. There are songbirds hanging outside many shop fronts. The scents of cooking food, motorbike exhaust, and garbage in the street constantly mix. Crossing the street is a test of faith. Traffic laws seem to be mere suggestions, and using the horn is necessary at every intersection. Everyone rides motorbikes. We saw families of 5, piles of bricks, huge glass windows, even a monkey in a baby bjorn — all on mopeds.

What a Hotel Room for $17 Gets You (on the Second Try)

Hotel Room View

Vegetable Phở, Specialty of Hà Nội

Egg Coffee, Another Hà Nội Specialty -- Almost Like Liquid Cake or Tiramisu

Songbirds in Cages Adorn Many of the Old Quarter Shopfronts

Streets of the Old Quarter

Old Quarter Shops

People-Watching from a Cafe -- You Never Know Who or What Will Drive Past on a Moped or Bicycle

Busy Streets

Parks and Public Spaces are Very Popular with the Locals for Tai Chi, Skateboarding, Badminton, Shuttlecock, and Bike Riding

We Must've Seen 20 Wedding Photo Sessions in Progress

More Weddings

Shuttlecock -- Sort of Like Volleyball, but Using Your Feet

Cathedral in Hoàn Kiếm

Streets of Hoàn Kiếm

Crossing the Street in Hà Nội

Traffic Near Hoàn Kiếm Lake, Hà Nội

Hà Nội Intersection from Above, This is Actually During Pretty Mellow Traffic

Hoàn Kiếm Lake (“Lake of the Restored Sword”)

Hoàn Kiếm Lake is a lake in the old quarter of Hà Nội. Legend says that a Vietnamese general was given a magic sword by a lake spirit (somewhat like the Arthurian legend). The general used the sword to defeat the invading Chinese army. Two islands in the lake house a temple and the turtle tower (Tháp Rùa). The path around the lake is a pleasant walk with many Vietnamese locals painting and drawing, lifting weights, practicing Tai Chi, and relaxing.

Turtle Tower (Tháp Rùa) in the Middle of the Lake

Us in Front of the Turtle Tower

Incense Burning at the Temple

Temple Altar with Offerings

Chess at the Lake Temple -- People Play Chinese Chess (Cờ Tướng) in Many Public Spots and Cafes

More People Playing Chinese Chess

"Can I Take a Picture With You?" -- Linley is a Celebrity

Vietnamese Women’s Museum

We visited the Vietnamese Women’s Museum near Hoàn Kiếm. The museum had many excellent exhibits that showed the traditional lifestyle, clothing, and culture of women in Vietnam. The exhibits spanned many ethnic groups and time periods in Vietnam’s history.

James Explores the Interactive Exhibits

Many Old Propaganda Posters on Display

More Propaganda Posters

Hỏa Lò Prison (a.k.a. the Hanoi Hilton)

The Hỏa Lò Prison (a.k.a. the Hanoi Hilton) has a long and violent history. Most of the prison was demolished, but part remains as a museum. The prison was first used by the French to house political prisoners, and then by the North Vietnamese during the Vietnam War to hold prisoners of war. The museum plaques and information were quite interestingly and blatantly biased — signs claim that American prisoners were treated like house guests, while the French consistently abused Vietnamese prisoners. One exhibit displays the flight suit and parachute of John McCain.

Entrance to Hỏa Lò Prison

Shards of Glass, Barbed Wire, and Iron Bars

John McCain's Flight Suit & Parachute

Hồ Chí Minh Mausoleum

The Hồ Chí Minh Mausoleum is a large monument that holds the body of Hồ Chí Minh. Viewing hours are only in the morning, so we only saw the outside of the mausoleum. The wide open streets outside are blocked off from traffic, so it felt quite nice to be away from the moped swarm.

Outside the Hồ Chí Minh Mausoleum

Panorama of the Hồ Chí Minh Mausoleum

One-Pillar Pagoda

The One-Pillar Pagoda is one of Vietnam’s most iconic Buddhist temples, and is over 1000 years old. The pagoda has been rebuilt many times. The shape of the pagoda is meant to resemble a lotus blossom.

The One-Pillar Pagoda